Walking past and through the numerous arts and crafts markets in CDMX you can’t but fail to see colorful images of a bizarre looking aquatic munchkin, the Axolotl (with the X pronounced “sh” or “ck”) which has become, or at least has been strongly promoted as, the mascot of CDMX.
One reason for this is that they are only found in wetlands directly South of the city, specifically the “floating gardens” of Xochimilco a canal system that is the main remnant of a water-based transport and agricultural system built by the Aztecs. We didn’t get down to Xochimilco on this trip (explanation to follow), but we did trek out to the Museo del Axolote way out in the Southwest of CDMX. First the Metro linea 7 to Barranca del Muerto (The Ravine of the Dead – welp) then braving the local bus to Parque Aguilas. Note to self: Avoid local buses during the afternoon period when high school gets out as we had to fight our way out through the in door, missing our stop on the way. “Parque”is a bit of a stretch, as there doesn’t seem to be much infrastructure, and we have to be assured by locals that we’re on the right path before heading up a deserted, dusty, steep, scruffy road on foot before eventually reaching the Axototl museum.
“Museum”is also a stretch, but it’s a charming labor of love to the cute paedomorphic salamanders. Paedomorphic meaning they are amphibians that never metamorphize into an adult form with the ability to live on land: That is, always tadpoles never frogs.
Why all the hoopla about the Axolotl? Well, the fact they’re endemic to the CDMX area, critically endangered and require a pristine aquatic environment in which to survive means that even the thickest skinned “Chilango” (CDMX resident) wants them to stick around and not go extinct. Then, there’s the fact that they are excessively kawaii, but at the same time alien, resulting in TikTok and Minecraft fame. The feathery, pulsating external gills, permanent smiles and assorted vivid colors are their visual calling cards.
Boom! And so, in the endless Mercados Artesanales of CDMX the plucky axolotls fight it out with Frida Kahlo and Lucha Libre icons for consumer dominance. Although Frida and the Blue Demon have their strong selling points, it’s hard to match the overwhelming cuteness and, often, intensely psychedelic representations of the local salamander. Yes, they’re salamanders, mole salamanders to boot, but you’ll have to study up for yourself to find out what that all means.
The big deal is that this little museum has a bunch of live specimens on site, I wish I’d made a note of their names, which were posted on their tanks. They are weird little buggers: In their ideal, pristine ecosystem they’re an apex predator (!) but, sadly, there is hardly anywhere left in the wild where this is the case due to pollution and introduced invasive species. So, they sit motionless in their tanks, except for their flamboyant gills flapping every 5-10 seconds, cartoonish eyes staring into the void.
We didn’t make it to Xochimilco – It’s become known as a party destination, like a Venice where the gondolas come with tequila on tap. Not that I’m dead against that concept, but its hard enough keeping your alcohol consumption under control in Mexico, plus we feel bad for the poor, beleaguered axolotls. We read that dawn kayak tours are possible and, next time, we plan to make it to the Island of the Dolls, recognized by Guinness World Records as hosting the world’s largest collection of haunted dolls. And there will be a next time as we are scheduled to return to CDMX next February so I can extend and, hopefully, make my residency permanent.
The largest green space in the central CDMX is the Bosque de Chapultepec which, roughly, translates to “The Wood with the hill of the Grasshoppers”. Aside from the greenery and the botanical garden there are three major museums – Anthropology, Modern Art and Natural History. So far, we’ve seen the first two and both are certainly worth your time. In particular the Anthropological museum is architecturally stunning and loaded with eye candy.
It’s not all stitched together pottery, there are life size dioramas and installations plus many psychedelic large-format paintings, sculptures and mixed media pieces. The indigenous people of the past, the local Mexica, Aztecs and Toltecs all had a cosmic perspective such that Mexico City was the center of the universe and, funnily enough, as science comes to the understanding that the cosmos is, essentially, infinite, they were right. The museum is not afraid to take some liberties by acquiring modern works with ancient subject matter and it works well, making for a vibrant and colorful experience.
The Bosque is very large, but I wish this space was closer to our apartment as I need to run but the traffic and air quality make that difficult; it would be a big drawback to living here. In the neighborhoods there are many small, attractive green plaza spaces to sit and have your lunch in the shade, but, as a runner, you’d be running short laps zooming past the same people very minute or two. Meanwhile, dogs are just as much as a fixture of daily life here as they are in Portland. Not surprisingly, chihuahuas are popular, with Pomeranians, Bostons and Frenchies close behind. The professional dog walkers are impressive, managing up to 6 or more dogs at one time with nearly all of them behaving very well, which is just as well as things are very hectic and traffic is on all sides.
The Bosque also contains the Castle/Castillo where Emperor Maximillian held court in extravagance before his time was up. So, the French were here, along with the Spanish but Max was Austrian, yet he was the viceroy selected to keep the locals in order. Oh, those crazy Europeans. However, revolution was in the air and he didn’t last long. Coincidentally, we later travel to Queretaro and visit the spot where he was executed by firing squad. Let this be a lesson to you all, or, at a minimum, to colonial despots. The castle is on top of “grasshopper hill” and has excellent views of the city so, what the heck, its worth a visit when you’re in town.
Though there’s much more I could include here, I admit that we left CDMX quite a while ago, but I’ll check in soon with some updates from Queretaro and, currently, San Miguel de Allende as Abby and I make the rounds checking out the Central Highlands.
Hasta Luego!
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