Over to Belfast, Northern Island to meet Brother Des and see family, arriving at the George Best City Airport: Both my Mum and Dad were born there and it is still home to brother Brian and his wife Anne, sisters Clair and Maureen, nephews and nieces Colette, Maria, Joanne, Roisin, Brian, Conor, Aidy, Natasha, Patricia and Mary and many kids and grandkids. Photos of most can be found in the “Belfast Family” photo gallery.
Back in the mid to late 70s, Belfast was in the middle of “The Troubles” that resulted from fighting between the Catholic Republician minority and the Protestant Unionist majority followed by the arrival of the British Army to keep order. Not going into all the historical background here, look it up.
In this strife-torn environment the emergence of punk rock was a rare opportunity for kids on both sides to get together and create and we’re lucky enough to see a performance of “Good Vibrations” a musical about Terri (with an eye) Hooley who set up a record store in the most bombed block of Europe and who, subsequently, promoted bands such as The Undertones, Rudi and The Outcasts. The Undertones were responsible for one of the greatest rock’n’roll singles of all time “Teenage Kicks”, the first line of which is the title of this post. The packed audience is on its feet for that song and for Stiff Little Fingers “Alternative Ulster”, the lyrics of which are, sadly, still as relevant today as they were 40 years ago.
Earlier, nephew Aidy took us on a historical pub tour including McHughs, Kelly’s and Whites, plus a detour to a large mural of the title of this post where a hip-hop festival is held. Also, we get a look at the aftermath of the blaze at the historic Bank Buildings, which included the iconic Primark Department Store. This fire has had a big impact on the locals as it was at the very center of the city.
We also get a chance to see my niece Roisin sing at the Belfast Cabaret Supperclub. In addition, the show includes burlesque dancers, acrobats, magicians and a drag queen MC. A handsome room and a cool spot, indeed.
A day trip with Sister Clair takes us to Castle Ward, a country estate with an 18th Century mansion, extensive grounds and the historic farmyard which was the location of Winterfell, the House of Stark, heavily featured in Series 1 of “Game of Thrones”. Get your GOT trinkets at the Slaughterhouse Shop!
Much of the extended family lives in West Belfast, and Brian & Anne’s place backs right onto the Peace Wall, so their lives have been profoundly affected by the troubles. We get a tour of the area from Kevin, Joanne’s husband, to see the famous murals, look at things from both sides of the wall and get a run through of the critical events that kicked off the modern troubles in 1969.
Things settled down after 1998’s Good Friday agreement but the local government in Stormont is currently, and literally, none functional and Brexit has everyone worried as to what will happen with the border between the North, currently part of the UK, and the independent Republic to the South. Fingers crossed for a creative solution that will maintain the relative peace in the North.
Finally, Abby and I head up Black Mountain, the impressive hill that looms over West Belfast, for a hike to the top and an amazing 360 degree view taking in the city, the Mountains of Mourne, Loughs Neagh, Strangford and the big inlet of the Irish Sea also known as the Belfast Lough. Unfortunately, we miss Brother Brian who, on a whim, decided to cycle up the hill to meet us! Kudos to him given he’s 10 years older than me and the hill is long and very steep. A final meet up with Clair and Colette and it’s time to head onto England to see friends.
If you’re into history of the UK and Ireland with real emotional impact, wonderful scenery, the Titanic story, Games of Thrones, atmospheric pubs and engaging people give Northern Ireland a visit.
By the way, for the non-Europeans, the George Best the airport is named after, was, possibly, the best football (soccer) player of all time and played for Manchester United and N.Ireland.
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